TEXTILES
The Kuba Peoples of the Kasai river area of Zaire, now known as the Democratic Republic of Congo, produced some of the most renown and exquisite examples of the ancient African tradition of weaving fine quality raffia cloth. Use of this embroidered and appliqué decorated raffia cloth was once widespread throughout Central Africa. The typical finished textile is 20” to 30” wide and usually varies in length from four to six meters. The fabric is wound around the body as a skirt for ceremonial dress, especially funerals. The Kuba people believed their clan ancestors in the land of the dead would not recognize them unless they were correctly dressed in high quality raffia textiles. Fine clothes are accumulated over several generations.
Raffia is a fiber made from the leaf of the Raffia Palm, which is a potent symbol of security and continuity for the Kuba people. Because the raffia is not spun like cotton, the fiber lengths are quite short. The basic unit is an undecorated square or rectangle of plain raffia cloth. It is  woven on an upright single-peddle loom, usually by the men, with the women usually doing the decorating. The woven cloth is stiff and uneven so it must be hemmed and softened, then stitched together to form patterns and establish the width and length.
Much of the beauty of the cloth is due to the brilliance of the natural colors and the individual designs. When squares are dyed, natural vegetable dyes are used, usually reds, blacks and yellows. Designs can be achieved using a variety of methods besides stitching together of squares in checkerboard patterns. Appliqués, often in free form designs can be used. It is thought that this began because the pounding used to soften the fabric often created holes that had to be patched. Other patches were then added to balance out the design. The appliqué is often outlined and stitched with a different color thread. Other designs can be made with dye-dye techniques, by embroidery, reverse appliqué, patchwork or embroidery. Often, on men’s dance skirts, a fringe of raffia bobbles was added.
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